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Tag: asia

  • Sometimes it’s heaven, sometimes it’s hell, and sometimes it’s just El Nido

    (to the tune of Waylon Jennings)

    El Nido is the main tourist draw on the island of Palawan, and for good reason: the dramatic landscape is full of beautiful karst mountains and islands rising nearly vertically out of the sea. The town is also set up for tourists, so it’s easy to find an island-hopping tour that will take you to some spectacular spots for swimming and snorkeling. It’s definitely a touristy spot, where pasta restaurants abound, and not some hidden gem, but hey… we are tourists after all!

    Beautifully dramatic El-Nido.

    Traveling for eight months is sure to have its ups and downs; sometimes those ups and downs all occur within a few days. Henri just posted about the ups of our wonderful day of island-hopping, but let me also describe the downs that book-ended that day.

    The day before island-hopping started wonderfully. We headed down to the beach (Corong Corong) to get a little physical activity: a relaxed soccer game on the sand that was the very portrait of family bliss. What better thing to do after the game than to wade into the water to cool off? Well, in hindsight, it would have been better to do practically anything else!

    Claire and the kids headed out first into the water, and then I followed. Just as the water reached my thighs, I took a step and put my foot into what could best be described as an electrical outlet. By reflex, I pulled my leg out and my left leg went into the outlet next. I jumped back, cursed a few times, and yelled to the family that I got stung by a jellyfish and started back to shore. Now, I have a pretty decent pain tolerance (I once broke my tibia playing soccer, and then watched the second half of the game before going to the hospital), but this definitely… hurt. This wasn’t the kind of jellyfish you find at Parlee Beach.

    Claire managed to lead the kids back to safety, avoiding a few other stingers that she managed to spot in the water. Once on the beach, I wandered up to the nearest bar to ask them if they had any… vinegar. The nice folks at the bar had a bottle ready just for this, and sprayed my legs (to disactivate the stinging cells) and we removed the tentacles from my burning skin. When I noticed a few locals gathering around to see what was going on, and the barman talking about how it can be dangerous if you get stung near veins I suddenly thought: “wait, are these those tranparent box jellyfish… you know, the kind that sometimes kill people?”

    

It looks like the answer, after a bit of googling and AI, was “yes!” Fortunately, I was stung (rather than one of the kids) and I didn’t have any worrying symptoms (shortness of breath, heart palpitations, or … death). I just had to deal with my skin burning for the rest of the day, and some sensitivity afterwards.

    My hopes of being a leg-model are dashed.

    Needless to say, this encounter made us a little anxious for our island-hopping the following day. But, we went ahead, with caution: we put our rashies on, brought a bottle of vinegar, kept our eyes open for jellyfish, and let others go into the water first!

    And we never saw a jellyfish! It was a great time.



    To be fair, there are warnings about jellyfish. But I’m pretty sure it’s the winter…

    And the day after island-hopping? Well, that’s when I got gastro. And then everyone got gastro. No need for further details there…

  • Banaue and the Hapao Rice Terraces

    One of the main reasons we ventured to the north of Luzon was Claire’s desire to see the rice terraces that have been carved into the mountain-side there over the past 2000 years. So, after Sagada we headed to the city of Banaue, which, for tourists like us, serves as a jumping-off point for seeing the surrounding terraces. But how to get there? Well, the easy option would have been to take a coach bus. But Elsie really wanted to ride in a jeepney. We saw tons of these colourful, converted jeeps transporting people around Manila, but were a little too-intimated to try to take one. So we crammed like sardines with a bunch of filipinos into the back of a jeepney in Sagada, headed for Bontoc. Much like a can of sardines, the jeepney had minimal suspension, and the ride along the twisty roads was a little rough on everyone’s stomach. I also hit my head on the roof a few times, to everyone’s amusement. But we made it. From Bontoc, we caught a very comfortable minibus to Banaue, and along the way were wowed by the views as the road twisted and turned. As we approached the city, we caught more and more views of rice terraces.

    The family crammed into a jeepney.

    From Banaue, there were a number of possibilites for an excursion to the nearby rice terraces. We opted for just doing one, because we are on a budget and also because have been exhausting the kids! So we headed out on a private jeepney to the Hapao rice terraces, where we met up with a local guide (mandatory) who took us on a trek through the terraces that surround the village, with a well-deserved stop at the local hot-springs.

    The Hapao rice terraces, view from above.

    The walk was beautiful, and it was impressive to imagine how much work went into altering the landscape to suit agriculture (and to see the effort it took to work the fields). What made this tour even more amazing was our charming guide Joseph, who told us stories about his ancestors (a house adorned with the skulls from tribal warfare!), local customs, and growing up in the village, and answered all of our questions about how to actually grow rice. It was really fantastic!

    The Hapao rice terraces.

  • Manila Sunrise

    After an amazing few weeks in Oz, it’s time to embark on the next stage of our family adventure: South-East Asia.

    I’ll readily admit that I was feeling a bit nervous about this transition, after such an easy time in Australia. Claire and I have traveled in the region before, but that was over a decade ago. Things went pretty smooth back then, but I am the kind of guy who’re likes his routine, and knowing generally how things work. I knew this would push me a bit out of my comfort zone… but that was always part of the point.

    So after an eight hour flight, and many, many movies (I finally saw Barbie!) we landed in Manila. We managed to get our bearings pretty quickly, make it to our hotel, and grab some delish Filipino food nearby. After just a couple of hours amidst the bustling streets, the smell of street food, and the thrill of crossing the street without getting run over, I can say that the nervousness has shifted to excitement!

    Our first resto, and hotel in Makati City (Manila).

    This morning we woke up with the sunrise and the meowing of stray cats, and headed out the door to explore. I’m happy to say that the kids have fully bought-in to what will surely be our new routine: wandering around the streets trying to find the best cart or hole-in-the-wall serving something that will function as breakfast.

    Early morning street-food breakfast. This hole-in-the-wall was bustling.

    As an aside: how did people travel before smartphones? I mean, we did it going around the world back in 2012, but how? Was it just using those grainy maps in the guidebooks, our own wits, and the kindness of others? This time, upon landing in Manila, we got a SIM card at the airport, and hailed a ride with Grab (think Uber). It sure did seem to make things easy!

    I don’t even know what to say about this.