After a double-decker overnight bus from Bangkok and a somewhat chaotic minibus transfer, we pulled into Ao Nang one fine morning. Ao Nang was bustling, with lots of tourist shops and restaurants, and a stunning backdrop of the sea with karst islands in the distance rising vertically out of the ocean. So we were starting to wonder if we had erred by booking accommodations in nearby Krabi Town instead. This doubt was reinforced further when our transfer dropped us off on the dusty outskirts of said town. Our driver had offered to take us directly to our hotel… for an exorbitant price. So we instead found a taxi driver who seemingly had nothing else to do that day, and haggled down to a reasonable price.
We had a few days in Krabi Town and we ended up loving it. There was lots of local life, including a bustling market where we stocked up on bananas (one dollar for a bunch) and dragon fruit, a great Thai coffee shop, but also a good number of tourists. Our evenings were spent wandering between a few night markets, which allowed everyone to find the exact food that satisfied their cravings.
To get out of the town, we took a longboat to Railay Beach, one of the spots that Claire was most looking forward to in Southern Thailand. It did not disappoint! It was very much resort-land, and the vibe was very chill. There are a few beaches here nestled among the dramatic karst mountains. We spent the afternoon chilling on one beach until we decided to walk to another beach, or watch some rock climbers, or grab some food, or watch the monkeys/water monitors, until it was time to catch our longtail boat back into town.
The next day we booked an island-hopping tour out to Koh Phi Phi and the surroundings. This was our third such excursion (after Fiji and El Nido) and they’ve all been great. Personally I love jumping straight off the boat into the water without having to ever deal with wet sand… it’s paradise!
We started with a quick stop to jam-packed Maya Bay, which was beautiful, but mostly seemed to serve as a staging area for Instagram photoshoots (kids these days… amirite?) since we weren’t allowed in the water in order to protect shark breeding grounds. Next, there was a stop at a nearby lagoon for swimming, and then we were off to snorkel. Of our three excursions, this was the top spot for snorkelling, and we were the last ones back in The boat. There was coral, clams, sea snakes, and all sorts of tropical fish. My favourite was a large purple one that overdid the makeup a touch that morning with its orange lipstick and green eye-liner.
Interestingly, our fantastic tour-guide, Kong, was quite safety-focused. He told the whole boat that we HAD to wear a life jacket while snorkelling, which quite surprised us. In the end, we went up to him after to see if we REALLY needed to, since we are strong swimmers. and he quickly told us not to worry about it. We realized that in the south of Thailand, there was tourism from lots of countries, and at least half of the people in our boat (and others) didn’t know how to swim.
We saw this at our last stop as well: Bamboo Island. The island is a national park and there was a ranger with a megaphone patrolling the beach announcing the rule: you need a life jacket while swimming or there is a stiff fine! This seemed a bit much to us… so Claire took a little walk and discovered that off of the main beach there were tons of beautiful spots where people (mostly westerners) were swimming without life jackets. So we joined. And the rangers patrolling nearby did not even care.
5 billets SVP 